It should be remembered that first aid is literally that: aid or treatment that is rendered as soon as a problem is identified at the scene of an accident or injury, and as a bridge between those first to respond to a problem until the time when professional care is provided. Many people confuse first aid with specific treatment for an illness or injury. This often results in proper care never being received or care being delayed to such an extent as to compound the problem.

It is also important to remember that an ill or injured dog will usually not understand what is happening and often will be in pain. Dogs in pain will bite and resist care from those attempting to perform first aid. Fashioning a muzzle out of gauze or cloth to control the mouth and/or wrapping the head or entire animal in a large towel or blanket can help to minimize further damage to the giver as well as the recipient of the first aid.

First aid often makes use of items in a first aid kit, as well as other available items (such as broom sticks for splints, etc.) to stabilize a patient, make the patient ready for transport to a veterinary hospital and to keep the animal stable until professional care can be provided. Most dogs with serious injuries can be assisted with the methods outlined herein, but few people have access to the sutures, instruments, intravenous fluids and diagnostic equipment needed to bring most problems to a resolution. Thus, the need for professional veterinary care cannot be over emphasized. As with any first aid information, it is best to study what to do before a situation arises, as there is usually little time to refer to this program when first aid is required.

CPR in dogs is nearly identical to that in people. If one is proficient in human CPR, he/she can perform canine CPR. When a dog that has stopped breathing and is in cardiac arrest, an "ABC" algorithm is used.

A=AIRWAY: Make sure that the airway is clear and free as debris or foreign objects. The tongue can be pulled or rolled forward to open the back of the throat. 

B=BREATHING: In most dogs, due to the shape and size of the nose and mouth, it makes more sense to breathe through the nose. After checking and clearing the airway and moving the tongue forward, carefully close the mouth using your hands to cover and hold the lips shut. Next, place your lips around the nose and end of the mouth to form a seal and breathe into the nose being careful to watch for the chest to expand (rise). Release your seal on the nose and allow the patient to exhale, as noted by the chest falling, while you inhale and repeat the process; recommended 20-30 times per minute.

C=CARDIAC MASSAGE: To check for a pulse or cardiac activity, you can place your hand directly over the heart along the chest wall near the sternum (breast bone) between the 3rd and 6th ribs. Another site for pulse palpation is inside of either thigh between the groin. If no heartbeat is noted, cardiac compression should be begun. The dog should be lying on its right side with the head slightly lower than the body. Quick firm thrusts appropriate for the size of the dog should be applied to the heart 1-2 times every second.

It is preferable to apply breaths and compression at the same time, but if one is without assistance, alternating breaths with cardiac compression; about 5 compression for every breath is acceptable. Check for pulse and watch for the patient to begin breathing again about every two minutes. If a pulse is noted, discontinue cardiac massage. Continue breaths until the animal begins to cough or obviously breathe on its own or until further assistance is obtained.

An alternative technique if one is without assistance is to cup the chest with two hands on both sides of the heart, compressing the chest and heart with each thrust, allowing a short pause about very 5 strokes so that the chest may expand. This technique may be combined with intermittent respiration along with the general chest compression. 

Bleeding is likely to occur any time that tissues are damaged, usually from some type of trauma. While in most cases bleeding will not be life threatening, heavy or prolonged bleeding can lead to shock and death of the dog. Bleeding from surface wounds is usually easily stopped, while bleeding from an artery, the vessels which carry blood from the heart under pressure, can be difficult to control and can lead to death of the dog.

For most surface wounds and smaller lacerations, application of pressure directly over the wound using a cloth of some sort will usually stop the slow flow. Do not wipe or pat the wound as this will usually restart the bleeding. A cloth or gauze pad can be taped or wrapped in place to keep the wound clean and dry and prevent further bleeding. 

Puncture wounds, like those caused by dog bites, may not appear to bleed much. Deep punctures, especially those into the chest or abdomen, can result in serious hemorrhage that you may not notice. Check the dog's gum color to see if it is pink. If the gums are pale and the dog seems weak, immediate veterinary attention is needed to save its life. If the gums appear a healthy pink color and the animal is alert, clean the wounds with water and cover with a small dressing until help can be obtained.

Heavy bleeding may occur after deep lacerations or other traumatic injuries. Often blood will flow rapidly from the wound or even squirt out like water flowing from a hose. Immediate, heavy pressure should be applied to the area to slow the flow. Next, a tourniquet or other pressure wrap can be fashioned from a cloth and small stick, knife or similar item and tightened just above the bleeding area if the bleeding is on one of the legs or tail, or directly on the area if on the body, neck or face. With neck wounds, be careful not to restrict the flow of air through the trachea (windpipe) or your dog could suffocate. After these first aid procedures are performed, the dog should immediately be taken to a veterinarian.

An alternative method to control heavy bleeding on the legs is to apply pressure in the groin or arm pit areas where the arteries emerge from the body, holding the pressure until a suitable dressing can be applied or help arrives. Any time pressure wraps or a tourniquet is used, it should be loosened every 30 minutes to maintain circulation to the area.

Nosebleeds can also occur for various reasons, sometimes after a trauma, sometimes due to internal illness. Try to get the dog to lie on one side and be as calm as possible, elevating the head slightly above the body. An ice pack can be applied over the bridge of the nose to cool the area and constrict local blood vessels. An examination by a veterinarian is advised if the cause is not obvious or if the bleeding continues or recurs so that the cause may be determined.

Other times, blood may appear from the genitals or in the urine, from the anus or in feces, in vomit, or as the animal coughs or sneezes. Very seldom will such bleeding be dangerous in the short term, but an appointment with the vet is again advised to quickly determine the cause.

Toenails often become caught in fences, debris or carpet and break along the length of the nail, or at the junction between the nail and the foot. Some nails become fully or partially luxated which means that the hard outer layer of the nail becomes partially or fully removed from the underlying living tissue or "quick".

Broken nails are usually painful: Sometimes fragments can be left in the skin, other times the fracture will place pressure on the nerve tissue of the quick. The greatest concern, however, will be if heavy bleeding occurs. Pressing "quick stop" or even cornstarch into the nail may control small amounts of bleeding. Be careful, as this can be quite painful. Holding the foot in ice water or packing the area with cotton and applying a light pressure wrap will stop heavier bleeding. ((Broken Toenail))

The dog should be taken to the vet where a portion of the nail will be removed and cauterized, fragments removed from the foot, and medication given for pain, swelling, or to stop infection. Usually the nail will grow back, but if not, most dogs will heal well and walk fine for years to come.

Chemicals of all types can cause damage to the skin, eyes and facial structures. Acids, bleach, drain cleaners, other household cleaners, petroleum products, insecticides, weed killers, and pool chemicals are all among the many items which were not made to be compatible with our dogs. As early as possible, flush any areas with very large quantities of water. Eyes and mouth should be flushed immediately. It is important to remember that although a chemical may get on the skin, most dogs will naturally try to lick the area to remove the substances, thus causing further contamination.

A light soap, such as Ivory soap, can be used to clean the areas, especially if the substances are greasy. A few teaspoons of vinegar in a quart of water can be used to neutralize basic type chemicals, (bleach, drain cleaners) or a few tablespoons of baking soda in a quart of water can be used to neutralize acid burns. (pool acids, ammonia) After cleaning, antibiotic ointment can be placed on the wound and a light dressing applied, then the patient transported an animal hospital.

Dogs, especially puppies that chew on electrical cords often become shocked and burned. Lips, gums, tongue, nose, and other facial areas are most commonly involved. Often, the full extent of the damage is not realized until some time later as tissues damaged by the electricity begin to decay and slough. Electrical injury may often cause other problems such as fluid accumulation in the lungs, which can be life threatening without professional care. Removal of dead tissues, antibiotic therapy, and other supportive measures will be needed depending on the extent of the burns. Wash any fresh burn with cool water, apply antibiotic ointment and seek medical attention.

By far the most common type of burn is the thermal burn, a burn caused by a heat source or flame. A superficial burn, which involves only the outer layer of skin, is termed a first-degree burn. When the depth extends into dermis, or tissue just below the skin, this is called a second-degree burn. A burn that goes clear though the skin and dermis is a third degree burn and is by far the most serious type of injury. ((Thermal Burn))

First-degree burns often heal quickly and with minimal care, while third degree burns may require extensive supportive care, reconstruction of damaged areas, and if extensive enough, can easily kill your dog. Cool water should be used to clean all burns and the area may then be kept moist with wet packs or by immersing the affected area in cold water. Ice should not be used, as it will cause freezing of vital tissues and further damage the skin. For minor burns, keeping them covered and dressed with a mild triple antibiotic ointment should suffice. Deeper wounds should be covered in a dry clean dressing, and veterinary care should be sought. Often, even minor burns can become badly infected as bacteria invade through the damaged skin into the underlying tissues. see Burns

Any animal, especially puppies, can swallow objects that are too large to pass into the stomach and cause a blockage of the trachea. (windpipe) Many dogs with a cough are described as having something "in their throat" when actually that is not the case. If the animal is restless, cannot stop coughing or gagging and seems somewhat frantic, or if there is notable respiratory distress, then a choke situation may be occurring. If either by an object or confinement in a bag or box, a choke situation is one of suffocation, which is to restrict the amount of oxygen entering the bloodstream.

If the dog is not breathing, perform CPR. Provide fresh air or oxygen if available. Attempt to remove any visible object only if it is very accessible as the frantic dog may easily inflict a severe bite. Your veterinarian can administer oxygen, ascertain with X-ray the position of any object, and use sedation to safely remove a foreign body and alleviate the choke.

Frostbite occurs generally when the extremities such as feet, ears and genital areas become frozen. The skin in these areas will be cold and whitish. First, gently warm the affected areas in warm water or with warm wet cloths for 15-30 minutes. Be careful not to rub or press upon the tissues too much. As the skin warms, it will turn pink to red and may appear swollen or blistered as if a burn had occurred. Later a line may form between live and dead areas. The affected area may be very painful so aspirin or other pain medications may be needed. After warming the tissues, cover with antibiotic ointment and a light wrap. Veterinary care for infection control and repair of damaged skin is usually necessary.

Hypothermia is a lower than normal body temperature and in many ways is more serious than a fever. Exposure to cold over a period of time, being wet, shock and prolonged anesthesia can all lead to a drop in body temperature. This decrease in body temperature can lead to circulatory impairment and low blood sugar as the body tries to warm itself. Trembling, weakness or listlessness are all signs of lowered body temperature. If the dog's rectal temperature falls below 98F, shock and death can quickly occur.

Wrapping the animal in a warm blanket or two, giving a slow warm bath and rubbing the skin vigorously are all useful first aid techniques. Warm water bottles (warm to the touch) applied under the legs and on the body wall and changed every few minutes are also quite useful. Warm air from a hair dryer can also be used but be careful not to focus the heat on one area too long to avoid burning the skin. As the dog warms it may become painful as sensation returns and the pet senses the damage which has occurred. If the dog is weak, give small amounts of honey and water to provide a source of quick energy.

Puppies can easily become chilled as they have only minimal ability to produce their own body heat. Any puppy that is cold, weak and inactive may be hypothermic. Puppies should be warmed slowly as rapid warming may speed heat loss and lead to shock. The best way to warm a cool pup is to place it under your shirt and jacket next to your skin so that your own body heat can slowly and gradually warm the pup. Small amounts of honey in water (1 part honey with 9 parts water) can be given a few drops at a time every 10 minutes which will help the puppy maintain its strength and generate some body warmth. Never let a cold puppy nurse until it has returned to normal strength. This may take 2-4 hours.

Shock generally implies a lack of blood flow in the body or poor circulation. Shock may be caused by trauma and bleeding (internal or external), prolonged dehydration, heat stroke, poisons, or severe infections. The signs of shock include hypothermia (low body temperature), trembling, weakness, pale gums and lips, cold feet and legs and a rapid or weak pulse. Treatment with intravenous fluids and other medications will be very important, but first aid can be given.

1. If not breathing, or if the heart has stopped, perform CPR.

2. Control bleeding and treat any obvious wounds.

3. Calm the dog, keep it from moving about and wrap in a large blanket for warmth. Do not force the dog into any position it does not want to assume as this may cause respiratory distress.

4. Splint any fractures and support the dog for transport to a veterinary hospital. Use caution but muzzle if necessary. Wrap the dog in blankets or towels to conserve heat and to aid transportation.

Dehydration occurs as the body loses fluids and electrolytes, which are minerals in the blood. Lack of water or poor water intake, vomiting, diarrhea, and fever can all lead to dehydration. Dogs which are dehydrated will exhibit a loss of skin elasticity, have dry lips or gums, a weak rapid pulse, their eyes may have sunken in somewhat and they will appear depressed. As long as the patient is not vomiting you may administer small amounts of water or Pedialyte orally. The more severe the dehydration, or if vomiting is occurring, veterinary attention and fluid therapy may be required. Prolonged dehydration leads to shock and death and the cause must be sought out and treated.

There can be many causes for diarrhea in the dog. For simple diarrhea, allow your pet water, but withhold food for 24-36 hours. A small amount of KaoPectate, about 1 teaspoon for every 20 pounds your dog weighs, can be given one or two times. If your dog is weak or depressed, if the diarrhea contains blood, or if the diarrhea persists for more than 24 hours, medical attention should be sought. If vomiting is also occurring, treat as directed for the vomiting first. 

Drowning occurs when water has entered the lungs of the dog and blocks oxygen from getting into the bloodstream. Animals may "partially drown" when they have inhaled water but are still conscious, or they may be unconscious and their lips and tongue a blue/purple color when found. Hold the dog upside down to allow water to drain from the lungs. If it is alert and coughing, provide fresh air and comfort until it is breathing more easily.

If the dog is unconscious, drain the lungs as described above and then administer CPR. Some degree of forced respiration may be required to get air back into the lungs. Continue these efforts until the dog is breathing on it's own or until 10-15 minutes pass without response. Veterinary attention for aspiration pneumonia will also be needed.

The most common cause of electrocution is from dogs (puppies) chewing on electric cords. Electric shock will generally produce burns to the mouth or other area contacted. This is treated as an electrical burn. In more electrical injury, fluid can accumulate in the lungs. If the dog is not breathing, administer CPR, and in all cases, veterinary attention would be needed as soon as possible.

Lacerations and punctures to the eye or even small abrasions can quickly escalate and lead to loss of the eye. Small cloudy areas on the cornea (the clear part on the front of the eye) may represent an ulcer or erosion of the surface, which can be as serious as any physical wound. Rinse the eye with water any time it is injured, apply a clean dry dressing to the best of your ability and seek immediate veterinary care. Do not put peroxide or ointments in the eye, or eye drops you or your dog may already have, as these often contain drugs that are inappropriate if the eye is injured. ((Corneal Ulcer))

Any type of chemical can, at the least, irritate the eye, and at most, burn and erode the tissues and lead to blindness. No matter what type of substance you suspect has gotten on your dog's eye, rinsing for 5-10 minutes with fresh water is the most important first aid procedure. After the rinsing, cover the eye with dry gauze and get a veterinary evaluation quickly.

A prolapse is when the eye "pops" out of the socket and becomes trapped on the outside of the eyelids. This is especially common in pugs, pekes and similar short face dogs. A prolapse can occur after a jolt or blunt trauma dislodges the eyeball. Another common cause of this type of injury is what is know as the "big dog-little dog syndrome", which should be self-explanatory. Do wash the eye well with water, but don't try to push it back in place. Attention by a veterinarian as soon as possible will give the dog the greatest chance of still having the eye, let alone it's vision. ((Prolapsed Eye))

Fractures in dogs most commonly occur after some type of trauma although some dogs have been known to break their own bones with excessive rough behavior. A fracture may be suspected any time normal use or form of a limb or other bone/area has been altered; usually there will be moderate to severe pain in the area, swelling, bruising, and possibly an open wound with bone protruding.

Unless there is bleeding or an open wound which needs immediate treatment, the main priority will be to stabilize the area to prevent further damage. Fractures of the head seldom necessitate splinting. If a fracture of the spine is suspected, the animal should be moved as little as possible with transportation occurring by carefully sliding the patient onto a board, door or strong box material, or using a thick blanket or towels for support.

Fractures of the limbs can be splinted. In general, trying to stabilize the limb on both sides of the fracture is the primary goal. Splints are formed by using tightly rolled newspapers, broom sticks, small solid wood pieces or some similar objects placed on each side of the leg, then wrapping the leg and the splint material tightly together with gauze, cloth strips, belts or some other bandaging material. Fractures of the limbs closer to the body are hard to splint, so one may be forced to simply transport the dog as gently as possible to the veterinarian. Fractures with minimal bleeding are not true emergencies in as much as they are not life threatening, but further trauma, infection, and delayed attention may endanger the long-term function of the limb.

Heat stroke is a true and urgent emergency and if not quickly recognized and treated, will kill the dog or cause serious brain damage. A dog can only cool itself by panting which is not a very effective method, making dogs much less resistant to heat stroke. All dogs should have shade, shelter and cool water accessible on warm days. Other situations to avoid include being left in a car on a warm day, being caged or chained without shade, being put in a "cage dryer" while at a grooming shop or being any of the breeds which have short, "pug" type noses.

Early signs of heat stress include rapid panting/breathing that may seem a bit loud. The membranes of the mouth may turn bright red, the saliva will turn thick and the dog may vomit. As this progresses to a full heat stroke situation, the dog will become weak, stagger and fall to its side and even begin to pass blood from the rectum or mouth. Coma and death then follow. If you think your dog is undergoing heat stress, take the rectal temperature; anything over 105F is serious and indicates the need for immediate treatment.

Early care may include moving the dog to a cool and well-ventilated area. If the body temperature is over 105F, a bath in cool water, preferably in a tub or at least with a hose, should be given. Dogs that have collapsed should be given this type of treatment and RUSHED to your veterinarian. Permanent brain damage may occur in only a few minutes. ((Petichia))

While there is generally no one way or set procedure to follow after your pet is involved in this type of accident, some general guidelines may be helpful.

1. Approach the animal with care and caution; injured animals will bite. Use a muzzle or a blanket to comfort and control the dog while protecting yourself so that care may be given.

2. Make sure the animal is breathing and has a pulse; if not, begin CPR.

3. Attend to any bleeding next, following the guidelines herein.

4. Cover open wounds once bleeding is controlled. Splint or stabilize any limbs that appear damaged, then wrap the dog in a blanket or use a blanket or board as a gurney for transportation to a veterinary facility.

The most common symptom of an insect bite is pain at the site of the bite. Later the dog may tremble or shiver, have a fever, show difficulty breathing or even go into shock. If possible, remove any stinger that is present with a small pair of tweezers and apply ice to the area. If more serious symptoms are present medical help is needed. Often a more severe reaction to the bite will include swelling to the area.

Swelling of the lips, eyes, face or feet can indicate the bite of a bee, wasp, scorpion or spider, and that a secondary allergic reaction is occurring. Often the pet will rub at the face with its paws or scoot along the ground with the face down. Usually the reaction causes discomfort but is not fatal. The exception is if the swelling extends to the throat and neck or causes fluids to leak into the lungs (pulmonary edema). Unfortunately, it is impossible to predict which reactions will be minor and which more serious, so taking the dog to the vet where injections of cortisone, antihistamines, and oral medications will be used to stop the reaction, reverse the swelling, and prevent infection. ((Insect Bite))

There are many causes of pain, sometimes obvious, but other times without apparent reason. Dogs will not be able to tell you where they hurt or why, so careful observation as to how the pet moves, what causes the pain or when and under what circumstances the pain occurs will greatly assist your veterinarian in localizing and treating the problem.

If the cause of the pain is obvious, such as a broken or sore leg, a wound or some other type of injury, you should look to remedy that specific condition. Other times a dog may cry or yelp when it rises, moves, tries to jump up or down or when touched. Other signs of pain include nervousness, restlessness, panting or trembling. Aspirin dosed at about 1 grain (65mg) for every 15 pounds body weight can be used for temporary relief, but it should be remembered that if you relieve the pain it would be more difficult for your veterinarian to find the source. Also, relief of the pain DOES NOT equal a cure of the problem in most cases.

Unexplained pain can occur due to muscle strains or ligamentous sprains, back strain, or internal disease that produce what is called referred pain. An acute (sudden) abdominal pain can be caused by intestinal blockage, rupture of the urinary tract, poisoning, pancreatitis and peritonitis. All of these conditions are very serious and should necessitate immediate veterinary care for your dog.

Any substance that is harmful to the dog would be, to some extent, considered a poison. Our world is full of chemicals and other products that were clearly not intended for the body, but plants, insects, reptiles and spoiled foods might also be poisonous to our pets. There are tens of thousands of poisons in our world, so listing each and appropriate treatment would be a nearly impossible task. Therefore, the guidelines below should be most helpful in almost any situation when contact or ingestion of a toxin is suspected.

1. Try to identify what the poison is. Save the box or bottle or a sample of the suspected material or plant. If the product is man made and you have the box, read the label for specific antidotes and instructions, and to take this information with you to the veterinarian. Call your local poison control center for assistance.

2. Rinse the skin, eyes, face or mouth to remove any substances you feel are causing localized irritation. The use of a mild soap like Ivory may be needed. Even if the substance does not seem to bother the skin, wash it off so the dog does not later lick and ingest more poison.

3. Induce vomiting to rid as much of the toxins from the stomach as possible. This can be done by giving 1-3 teaspoons of hydrogen peroxide orally every ten minutes 1-3 times, until the dog vomits. DO NOT induce vomiting if the dog is depressed or unconscious, if you suspect the poison is a petroleum product, acid, alkali, solvent or similar type of cleaner, a tranquilizer, a sharp object, or if instructed not to on the package. Also, if you suspect the poisoning took place over 2 hours prior, vomiting should be avoided.

4. The next goal is to minimize further absorption of the toxins. Give one activated charcoal tablet for each 10 pounds your dog weighs, plus about 1 teaspoon of water for each pound of body weight. If you do not have the charcoal, try milk, egg whites or vegetable oil and give an enema with warm water to speed up intestinal transport of the poison. DO NOT use the charcoal if the dog is depressed or comatose, unable to swallow or having seizures. Again, follow any instructions on the package if available or as advised by a poison control center.

5. CPR may be needed if the animal stops breathing. Veterinary attention is always advisable. For specific treatments, select poisons and toxins, plant poisons or environmental toxins.

Smoke inhalation is most often associated with residential fires. Burns to the animal are often present as well. First aid primarily consists of giving the dog fresh air or oxygen if available, treating any thermal burns and seeking medical attention. Smoke causes damage to the lungs. The greater the damage, the more respiratory distress the dog will exhibit.

Minor smoke inhalation will produce few signs other than a mild cough and the patient will remain very alert. More severe injury will cause increasingly troubled breathing, heavy cough and the animal may be, to some degree, weak and only partially conscious. Severe inhalation will leave the pet unconscious, which may cause respiratory arrest necessitating CPR and emergency care to save the dog.

Most snakebites are nonpoisonous. All bites of poisonous snakes will be notable by two puncture wounds caused by the fangs of the snake, severe local pain, swelling, bruising of the skin or local redness and possibly hair loss, all which will occur very quickly. As the venom advances in the system, weakness, vomiting, muscle tremors, diarrhea, sometimes seizures and shock leading to death can occur.

There are only four species of poisonous snakes in the United States: rattlesnakes, coral snakes, copperheads and cottonmouth moccasins. Identification of the snake will be helpful to assist the veterinarian treat the patient the best way possible. ((Snake Bite))

First aid includes calming and restraining the dog first, then applying a tourniquet above the bite, but not too tightly. Using a razor blade or small knife, make two small parallel cuts in each fang mark. This should cause more bleeding, but if not, loosen the tourniquet slightly. You may also rinse the wound to stimulate more bleeding. Some manuals advocate sucking the blood/venom out, but this author cannot advise the practice. Seek attention at a veterinary hospital as soon as possible where antivenin and other supportive measures will be provided. If it will be awhile before care can be rendered, apply triple antibiotic ointment to the cleaned wound and cover with a clean, dry dressing. The more time that passes between the bite and having professional care, the more damage that will occur, so the necessity for rapid professional attention is again advised.

Swelling of the lips, eyes and face often indicates the bite of a bee, wasp, scorpion or spider and that a secondary allergic reaction is occurring. Often the pet will rub at the face with its paws or scoot along the ground with the face down. Usually the reaction causes discomfort but is not fatal. The exception would be if the swelling extends to the throat and neck or causes fluids to leak into the lungs (pulmonary edema). Unfortunately, it is impossible to predict which reactions will be minor, and which more serious. Taking the dog to the vet where injections of cortisone and antihistamines, and oral medications will be used to stop the reaction, reverse the swelling, and prevent infection. ((Insect Bite))

If your dog vomits once or twice then stops, there is little cause to worry. If, however, your pet experiences repeat attacks of vomiting, or if the animal is young, dehydration and other complications can lead to death. There are many causes of vomiting so as a rule of thumb, if the dog vomits more than 3-5 times within 6 hours, if the pet vomits repeatedly over several days, or if you have a young, small pup, medical attention should not be delayed.

For any case of vomiting, remove all food and water from your dog's reach, and keep the dog quiet and confined for 4-6 hours. If the vomiting has ceased after that time period, offer SMALL amounts of water or ice cubes to lick for the next several hours, and, if all is going well, slowly return your dog to normal water intake and offer a small amount of food. If this protocol fails, immediately consult your veterinarian.

With any wound, there are two components to first aid: control of bleeding and control of contamination. Most wounds will bleed, with larger lacerations and deep punctures the most likely to bleed heavily. Bleeding should be controlled as directed in this section. After the bleeding has been controlled, the wound can then be cleaned and dressed.

All wounds should be rinsed for several minutes with running water, trying to clean away any visible contamination and assure that tissues are moist. With larger lacerations, good judgment is needed as rinsing could cause or extend the bleeding, and therefore should be avoided. After the cleansing, hydrogen peroxide can be applied to the area and then blotted dry. 

A dry, clean dressing or bandage should be applied to the area. Antibiotic ointment can be applied but should be avoided if the wound is very deep or if internal organs are exposed. A vet should examine all dogs with any wounds or punctures as soon as possible. Wounds that need sutures can more easily be repaired if seen in less than six (6) hours. Older wounds will need to have dead tissue cut away before they can be repaired. Another consideration is that of infection. Most always the wounds will require irrigation with antibiotics and oral antibiotics dispensed.

Wounds caused by bites from dogs or cats are the most likely to become deeply infected. Close adherence to the wound treatment plan herein and prompt veterinary care will assure minimal damage to your pet. Another consideration is whether your dog or the animal that bit it is current on rabies vaccination. Rabies is fatal to you and your dog. The importance of vaccination cannot be over emphasized.

Lacerations and punctures to the eye, even small abrasions, can quickly escalate and lead to loss of the eye. Rinse the eye with water any time it is injured, apply a clean dry dressing to the best of you ability and seek immediate veterinary care. Do not put peroxide or ointments in the eye or eye drops you or your dog may already have. These often contain drugs that are inappropriate if the eye is injured. 

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